A biodynamic winemaker since the early 1980s, Nicolas Joly of Clos de la Coulee de Serrant in Savenniers founded Renaissance des Appellations (Return to Terroir) in 2001 - a worldwide group dedicated to biodynamic viticulture which now boasts 118 members from different 12 countries. I shot this video at a recent biodynamics seminar he held in New York. Enjoy!
- Deborah Gavito, co-owner of Counter Vegetarian Restaurant and Organic Wine & Martini Bar
But a small sample of the high esteem in which others hold Nicolas Joly & his biodynamically-produced wines:
"Coulee de Serrant 2002: When Joly gets it right, his wines sing. (...) It's completely driven by intense minerality, encasing a fresh, deeply wound core of honey, beeswax and clove that lies coiled like a spring. (..) The greatest Coulee de Serrant of the last decade(...)" Wine and Spirit - buying guide - 100 best wines - winter 2005
"...Loire winemaker Nicolas Joly was a pioneer in biodynamics in 1980 and is still one of the movement's leading figures. His 100 percent old-vine Chenin is one of the world's most distinctive wines." Food and Wine, Richard Nalley January 2004
Coulee de Serrant 2000: 93/100 The power of rock. This staunch wine is all about individuality, mineral and juice insinuating together. The youthful scent in baked apple and smokey quince; the severe acidity keeps the fruit tense for all its robust weight. Rich now, this will only grow richer, more aristocratic and more generous with age. Under Joly's biodynamic care, this historic vineyard produces one of the most distinctive and expressive wines of the Loire." Wine and Spirit April 2003
"Top 25 Vineyard of the world: It's not often that chenin blanc turns heads. And a wine from Coulee de Serrant is chenin an all its possible glory, decked out in sumptuous fruit, dazzling minerals and a compelling funk, different from but as delicious as truffles." Wine and Spirit, Fall 2002
SOME THOUGHTS ON BIODYNAMICS:
Biodynamics...takes advantage of the knowledge of the plant's energy system to help vines and plants nourish themselves more thoroughly. It serves as a catalyst by acting on photosynthesis and on soil life. Since energy is not measured in )grams or a few hundred grams). This approach is naturally quite upsetting to our materialistic farming advisors who refuse to understand that life cannot be reduced to quantitative measurements since it is made up of frequencies. These same advisors also take issue with the fact that biodynamics is putting an end to their profitable market in order to restore a knowledge to the faermer that should never have been lost. More and more talented winegrowers are converting to biodynamics because of its results. They do so because more and more consumers are beginning to tealize that modern technological wines taste the same anywhere on the planet and, depending on where the wine comes from, the same taste can be found for a fraction of the usual price, For once, the laws of economics go in the direction of truth. France is one of the countries in the world with the greatest number of excellent microclimates and wine sites. There and around the world, it is urgent to restore true knowledgee ande to bring terrroir back to life so wine growers and consumers can rediscover the pleasure of finding in wine the authenticity of site and real winemaking. Together, let's work for the " renaissance of appelation."
Counter Vegetarian Restaurant and Organic Wine & Martini Bar New York Organic Biodynamic Wine & Winemaking Nicolas Joly Coulee de Serrant Video Environment & Eco-Friendly, Green Organic Wine Biodynamic Wine
Joly is very magnaminous, charismatic and would make a terrific professor - but it seems that as a winemaker his focus is a bit out of balance. Don't get me wrong his lectures are wonderful and thought provoking, and his persuasiveness of the metaphysical is mezmorizing and who doesn't love the study of plant behavior? - But he doesn't talk one word about Coulee de Serrant or show the usual passion winemaker's do about their trade - isn't that a little strange?
That being said - I've tasted the wines and agree with W&S that for a Chenin Blanc they are very good, filled with personality and interesting to drink. I for one prefer Joly as a spokesman for biodynamics than lets say Randall Grahm that now is holding himself out as a born again "Anthroposophist" - check out: "Is it Doonsday for US Biodynamics" -
http://www.organicwinejournal.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8
Posted by: rats | May 05, 2006 at 11:23 PM
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Posted by: Bruce Coulthard | May 05, 2006 at 07:06 PM